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DIY etagère en onderzetters maken - itsOkay

Making DIY etagère and coasters

Have you always wanted to make your own etagère? In this easy manual, Stefanie shows you how to make a beautiful etagère and matching coasters from epoxy resin. You can make it in all kinds of colors and edit it with different decorations.

My name is Stefanie, I am 36 years old and work as a flight attendant. What started with making a few coasters with epoxy resin has grown into making many creations that I think of, design and make myself. My Instagram is CreaStessie . Feel free to take a look at my Instagram for inspiration!
I will take you through the creative process of making a beautiful 3-tier etagère with matching resin coasters. I have included clear photos so that the process is easy to follow. Have fun reading and making!

Supplies needed to make an etagère

    Nice to know:

    • The top level is ± 130 ml
    • The middle level is ± 220 ml
    • The bottom level is ± 350 ml
    • The coasters are ± 100 ml
    • You will need a total of 1000ml of resin for this set.

    Making DIY etagère and coasters

    Step 1: Preparation

    Make sure that all items are ready in a protected and clean workplace, free of dust and hair. Dust and hair can easily fly into your resin work and then dry together. This is not nice and a great waste of your creation. It is important that the surface you are working on is level so that your resin does not run to one side. It is also wise to make your work in a place that you will not need for the next 24 hours, because you cannot move your work once you have finished pouring. Think carefully in advance what you want to make and which colors you will use. You have approximately 30 minutes of processing time, so good preparation is very important. In the photo you can see how I like to prepare and place my things. I do the mixing and coloring on a protected table and the pouring on my kitchen counter. I checked the kitchen worktop for levelness and protected it with a garbage bag. Then the silicone molds were prepared on top.

    Step 2: Mixing the resin

    We use the Epoxy resin 1:1 casting resin . This is resin for large surfaces. I'm going to mix this in a silicone mixing cup. This is a resin for larger projects and somewhat thicker than other resin . Because the resin is somewhat thicker, the colors do not immediately flow into each other. That is very useful for what I want to make.

    Because I am going to fill 3 molds at once and therefore need quite a lot of resin , I am going to empty both bottles into my mixing cup. You can easily mix the resin 1:1. You can use mixing cups for this: I used an empty yogurt bucket so that I can just throw it away later. I empty both bottles of resin (A+ B) into the bucket. I make sure that the bottles are completely empty so that I have an equal amount of both liquids. If you are working with a different resin , I recommend weighing both components before mixing them. Then I set the timer to 4 minutes and mix the resin and hardener thoroughly with my stirring stick. Do this very carefully. Scrape the edges and bottom well, because everything needs to mix together very well.


    After stirring well for 4 minutes, I divide the resin that wants to color over the number of cups that I will use to mix with the color pigments. The majority of the resin for this project remains uncolored and remains in the bucket. I put 50ml in one cup for the pink pigment , 50ml in the other cup for the white pigment and 50ml in a cup for the gold flakes and glitter.
    I add 5-8 drops of color pigment to the resin in the cups. I also stir this very well, so that it becomes a nice even color of resin and the flakes and glitter mix well with the resin.

    Step 3: Casting

    First I pour the silicone molds half full with the uncolored resin from the bucket. After this I go over the resin with my heat hair dryer to remove air bubbles. This can also be done with a lighter, but do not go too close to the edges of the mold. You can then damage/melt the molds.

    Step 4: Casting the Pattern

    I start by pouring the resin mixture with the gold flakes and gold glitter. I pour this into all 3 molds in the middle of the mold. There is a silicone cap in the middle of the molds, which ensures that you have a recess in your work to place the etagère irons. This way you don't have to measure where the holes will be or make these holes afterwards in your work. So easy.


    Then I take the paper cup with the pink color resin and fold the edges of the cup together in a spout. In each mold I make a thin flower pattern with the pink color. I then repeat this with the white resin cup. Now you will see a beautiful flower pattern in each mold. Don't worry that it will stay that way, resin will "work" and ensure that the colors blend beautifully and create a petal effect. It's okay if not all flowers are the same. This is not the case in nature and it creates a beautiful and playful effect. After pouring, I always go over it again with my hair dryer to remove the last air bubbles. Don't do this too close because you risk "ruining" the pattern.

    I always cover my works so that no clumps can swirl in them while drying. I use a fly net for this, which is sturdy and does not touch my work. Now I let all the molds with resin dry. If you are satisfied with your work and it remains that way, it must dry for 24 hours. If, like me, you add a second layer of clear resin over it, it must dry for at least 4 hours. This depends on the temperature in the room where you are crafting. The warmer, the faster it dries.

    Step 5: Pouring the second layer

    Because I have worked with glitter and gold leaf, you may feel this in your work. I don't like that and therefore always add a second layer of clear resin over it. This is possible because I filled the molds about half full in step 3. This can be done after about 4-8 hours. I mix the resin with the hardener again as in step 2 and stir well for at least 4 minutes. After this, I pour the clear resin over my works and make sure that the molds are well full but not overflowing. I use my hair dryer again to remove air bubbles. This time let your work dry, covered, for at least 24 hours so that it can harden properly.


    Step 6: Remove your creation from the mold

    After your work has completely hardened, you can remove the etagère layers from the silicone molds. Do this carefully so as not to damage your work and the molds.


    Step 7: Assembling the etagère

    Start at the bottom with the largest plate on the etagère. You place the rubbers first and then screw in the screw at the bottom. Then screw an etagère iron onto the end of the screw on the other side of the first board. Then take the middle board, place another rubber circle between it and then another etagère iron. Then place the last etagère board, put the rubber rounds back in and then screw the last etagère iron with handle onto it. Tadaaa! Your etagère is finished.


    I also made two matching coasters at the same time. I made this following the same steps as described above. Now you have a beautiful etagère for delicious snacks with two beautiful matching coasters.

    I hope I have inspired you :) Good luck and have fun with your creation! Love Stefanie!


    Epoxy artwork usage tips

    Epoxy is not  dishwasher safe. Hot dishwater is also not recommended, because it heats the epoxy resin and can cause it to bend. After use, wipe epoxy creations with a wet, soft cloth and dry with a tea towel. Also don't use it as a cutting board. Sharp knives will scratch the epoxy resin .

    Do you want to make this too?
    - Epoxy resin 1:1 casting resin
    - The etagère kit from itsOkay
    - Embellishments for Jewelry
    - Gloves
    - Mixing cup / scale
    - Color pigments

    More information?

    Do you have questions about making art, jewelry or casting/coating floors or other objects? Several people work at itsOkay epoxy experts each with their own expertise. We are happy to help you.
    Please contact the customer service from itsOkay or take a look at it Epoxy knowledge center .

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